Choosing between emerald and Asscher cut diamonds can be tricky – they’re both step cuts with a sleek, elegant look. But they differ in shape, sparkle, and how they look on your hand.
- Emerald Cut: Rectangular with a length-to-width ratio of 1.30–1.50. Known for its linear flashes of light and an elongated, slimming effect on fingers.
- Asscher Cut: Square (almost octagonal) with a ratio of 1.00–1.05. Features a bold, windmill-like sparkle and a vintage, Art Deco vibe.
Quick Comparison Table
| Feature | Emerald Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Rectangular | Square/octagonal |
| Sparkle | Subtle, linear flashes | Bright, windmill pattern |
| Best For | Modern, minimalist styles | Vintage-inspired designs |
| Clarity Grade | VS1 or higher | VS1 to VS2 |
| Color Grade | H or better | H or better |
| Price | 35–40% less than round cuts | Slightly higher than emerald due to cutting complexity |
Emerald cuts feel sleek and modern, while Asscher cuts exude bold, vintage charm. Both are perfect for those who value understated elegance over flashy brilliance. Keep reading to learn about light performance, clarity, and how to choose the right setting for your diamond.
Learn all About Emerald and Asscher Cut Diamonds
Shape Differences: Emerald vs. Asscher
Emerald and Asscher cuts are both step-cut diamonds, but they stand apart in shape and the way they catch the eye.
Emerald Cut Features
Emerald cut diamonds have a rectangular form with clipped corners and a length-to-width ratio ranging from 1.30 to 1.50 (or up to 1.60 for a more elongated look). With 58 facets arranged in long, parallel steps, these diamonds reflect light beautifully and often appear larger than their actual carat weight.
Asscher Cut Features
Asscher cut diamonds are square-shaped with deeply cropped corners, giving them an almost octagonal look. The ideal length-to-width ratio for this cut is between 1.00 and 1.05, ensuring perfect proportions.
"The squared nature of the ring means the four lines of symmetry and diagonal corner facets draw the eye to the center of the stone, making it an enchanting and unique diamond shape." – Queensmith
| Characteristic | Emerald Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Shape | Rectangular | Square |
| Length-to-Width Ratio | 1.30–1.50 (up to 1.60) | 1.00–1.05 |
| Corner Design | Trimmed | Deeply trimmed |
| Visual Effect | Linear elegance | Octagonal symmetry |
| Facet Layout | Long, parallel steps | Shorter, square steps |
These design differences dramatically impact how each diamond looks and feels when worn.
How Each Cut Looks When Worn
The elongated shape of the emerald cut offers a flattering, slimming effect, making it a favorite for solitaire settings. On the other hand, the Asscher cut’s square design creates a bold, geometric centerpiece, often featured in vintage-inspired rings. This cut has seen a revival in vintage-style engagement rings. Additionally, both cuts are often 35–40% less expensive than round brilliants.
Light and Sparkle Properties
Understanding how light interacts with a diamond is essential when selecting one that suits your personal style.
Step-Cut Light Patterns
Step-cut diamonds, like emerald and Asscher cuts, reflect light differently from round brilliant diamonds. Instead of the intense sparkle created by triangular facets, step cuts showcase broad, elegant flashes of light. This creates a "hall-of-mirrors" effect, offering a striking visual experience. However, it’s important to look out for stones with large, dark areas, as these can diminish the overall appearance. The parallel facets in these cuts create a mesmerizing interplay of light, each with its own unique characteristics.
Sparkle Comparison
| Characteristic | Emerald Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Light Reflection | Linear, subtle patterns | Concentrated, radiant effect |
| Flash Type | Broad, understated flashes | Dynamic, bright reflections |
| Brilliance Level | Softer | Higher due to angled cuts |
| Visual Effect | Linear elegance | Windmill pattern |
| Light Performance | Gentle glow | Enhanced fire and brilliance |
Emerald cut diamonds produce a refined, linear glow rather than a dramatic sparkle. Their elongated shape emphasizes broad flashes of light, adding to their sophisticated appeal.
On the other hand, Asscher cut diamonds, with their square shape and precisely aligned facets, create a radiant "hall-of-mirrors" effect. This design enhances fire and brilliance, while its windmill-like pattern draws attention to the center of the stone.
"The squared nature of the ring means the four lines of symmetry and diagonal corner facets draw the eye to the center of the stone, making it an enchanting and unique diamond shape." – Queensmith
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Clarity and Color Guide
Step-Cut Clarity Requirements
Step-cut diamonds, such as emerald and Asscher cuts, demand closer inspection because their large, open facets make inclusions more visible. Unlike brilliant cuts, which can hide imperfections, step cuts highlight them.
Here are the recommended clarity grades for step-cut diamonds:
| Cut Type | Recommended Clarity |
|---|---|
| Emerald | VS1 or higher |
| Asscher | VS1 to VS2 |
The large table of these cuts emphasizes the center of the diamond, so clarity grades like SI1 or SI2 are less ideal since they don’t conceal flaws effectively.
"Emerald cuts have long, lean facets which produce mesmerising flashes of light. A clarity grade of VS2 (very-slightly included) and higher will ensure a completely eye clean appearance." – Alessandra Ranaglia, Head of Supply Chain
Once clarity is sorted, color becomes the next key factor in enhancing the diamond’s overall look.
Color Selection Tips
Step-cut diamonds reveal color more noticeably than brilliant cuts, so choosing the right color grade is essential. Below are some general guidelines based on the type of setting:
| Setting Type | Recommended Color Grade | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Platinum/White Gold | H or better | Appears white when viewed face-up |
| Yellow/Rose Gold | I or better | The metal color helps mask any tint |
| Halo/Side Stones | Match center stone | Ensures a cohesive appearance |
A diamond’s color comes from its body tone, not just how it looks face-up. While J or K colors can sometimes appear whiter than expected, opting for H or better ensures a consistently white appearance.
"Due to the large, open facets of emerald cut diamonds, there’s no place for inclusions to hide. Because of this, we recommend considering clarity first when choosing an emerald cut diamond, before balancing up colour and carat weight." – Taylor & Hart
One difference to note: Asscher cuts, thanks to their patterned reflections, can hide inclusions slightly better than emerald cuts. This feature allows for a bit more flexibility in clarity selection, but sticking to the recommended clarity ranges ensures the best visual result.
Making Your Selection
Style Preferences
Choosing between emerald and Asscher cuts comes down to personal taste. Emerald cuts feature a sleek, rectangular design with a minimalist vibe. On the other hand, Asscher cuts stand out with their bold, square-octagonal shape, often associated with vintage, Art Deco-inspired designs.
| Style Element | Emerald Cut | Asscher Cut |
|---|---|---|
| Overall Look | Sleek, linear | Bold, geometric |
| Era Appeal | Modern, minimalist | Vintage, Art Deco |
| Light Pattern | Subtle, linear | Dynamic, X-pattern |
| Best Setting Style | Contemporary | Vintage-inspired |
Now, let’s see how hand proportions can influence the way each cut looks.
Hand and Finger Size Guide
The proportions of your hand play a big role in how these cuts appear. Emerald cuts, with their elongated shape, create the illusion of length, making them a great choice for shorter fingers. In contrast, the square design of Asscher cuts pairs beautifully with longer fingers or larger hands.
While style and fit are important, the cost is another factor to weigh.
Cost Comparison
The price difference between these cuts often comes down to the complexity of the cutting process and whether the diamond is natural or lab-created:
| Diamond Type | Specifications | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Natural Emerald | 1.02 Carat, H VS1 | $3,670 |
| Lab-Created Emerald | 1.02 Carat, H VS1 | $1,300 |
| Lab-Created Asscher | 3.01 Carat, E VS1 | $10,990 |
Both emerald and Asscher cuts tend to be less expensive than round brilliants. However, Asscher cuts are often pricier because their intricate cutting process results in more diamond material being wasted.
Best Ring Settings
The right setting can highlight the unique features of each cut. For emerald cuts, prong settings allow more light to pass through, enhancing the diamond’s brilliance, while bezel settings offer extra protection for the stone’s corners. A trendy option is the East-West orientation, where the stone is set horizontally, giving a modern edge to a classic cut.
Asscher cuts look stunning in settings like four-prong, trellis, channel, or vintage-inspired designs.
When choosing a setting, think about both style and practicality. If you lead an active lifestyle, a bezel setting might provide better protection. For maximum sparkle, open prong settings are a great choice.
Conclusion
Main Points Review
Emerald and Asscher cuts stand apart in their shape and how they reflect light. Emerald cuts are rectangular, offering a sleek, elongated look. Asscher cuts, on the other hand, are square-shaped with a bold, striking appearance.
In terms of light reflection, emerald cuts produce subtle, linear flashes resembling a hall-of-mirrors effect. Asscher cuts deliver a more dramatic, kaleidoscope-like sparkle. These differences in light performance give each cut its own personality.
"When choosing between an emerald cut and an Asscher cut diamond, understanding their differences in shape, brilliance, and overall aesthetic is essential." – Benjamin Khordipour, Expert Jeweler, Gemologist, Celebrity Jeweler, Author, and Lecturer
With these characteristics in mind, here are some practical buying tips to help you select the diamond that best suits your taste and budget.
Buying Tips
| Selection Factor | Recommended Specifications |
|---|---|
| Clarity Grade | VS2 or better for both cuts |
| Color Grade | H or better for a white appearance |
| Total Depth | Keep below 67% |
| Budget Savings | 35–40% less expensive than round cuts |
For emerald cuts, focus on symmetry and avoid stones with noticeable dark areas. For Asscher cuts, ensure all eight facets meet at the center to create the signature "windmill" effect. Both cuts typically cost 35–40% less than round diamonds.
Emerald cuts often look larger relative to their carat weight, while Asscher cuts require higher carat weights to achieve similar visual size. For example, a 1-carat Asscher cut with G–H color and VS2 clarity is priced around $3,600, while a 2-carat version costs roughly $14,800. Choose a diamond that balances your style preferences with practical considerations for a sophisticated and well-thought-out purchase.
