The Complete Guide to Salt and Pepper Diamonds

If you’re shopping for a diamond, you’re likely aware of the most popular shapes and styles available. 

Most consumers immediately narrow their choices down to a white diamond, and then decide on cut, carat, and the type of setting. 

But there’s a type of diamond that may not be top of mind but has gained traction due to its alternative aesthetic — a salt and pepper diamond.

What Are Salt and Pepper Diamonds?

A salt and pepper diamond features inclusions that appear black and white. This mix of colors produces a gray, speckled look that is unique to that particular diamond. 

While almost all diamonds have inclusions, the ones in a salt and pepper diamond are more visible and significantly affect its overall appearance. 

If you were to ask a jeweler for the perfect diamond, you would likely expect a gleaming, strikingly-clear selection. Technically, that might be a perfect “grade” diamond, but it’s not the one that catches everyone’s eyes. 

There’s been a resurgence of the salt and pepper diamond, a sparkling mix of black and white suspended in a precision-cut gem. 

While traditional diamonds are esteemed for their lack of imperfections and inclusions, the opposite is celebrated with salt and pepper diamonds. 

Adding to the allure, sourcing these diamonds is much more environmentally positive than their picture-perfect counterparts. In the past, these were tossed aside and disposed of for not meeting normal inclusion standards. 

Now, they have a purpose and are sometimes chosen over the usual selections.

Characteristics

In the depths of these one-of-a-kind diamonds, you’ll find unrepeatable characteristics, patterns, and inclusions. 

With the surface clarity of any other gem, the glassy surface opens into a world of flecks and specks that sparkle and change from every angle. 

Below are the distinctive characteristics of salt and pepper diamonds.

The internal makeup of salt and pepper diamonds is a stark contrast to more “perfect” diamonds, but it has no effect on the variety and options you have when turning your attention to these black and white mysteries. 

The alternative personality of these speckled diamonds can be found in any cut you would find on the rest of the market.

Although sometimes the inclusions tend to show better when emphasized with the right cut, don’t worry about sacrificing your dream diamond shape just because you choose a salt and pepper diamond. 

They come in shapes such as: 

• round 
• cushion 
• marquise 
• trillion

A Rose Cut is one of the most popular options, as the details of the cut give the diamond every chance to shine and show off its brilliance.

Durability

As to be expected from any quality stone, salt and pepper diamonds rank at a 10 in hardness on the Mohs scale and are thus highly durable.

Although they’re in the same league in that sense, they are slightly more brittle due to the inclusions. The more inclusions, the more susceptible it is to damage. 

This shouldn’t cause a problem as long as it’s set correctly to give it the support and protection needed, but avoid cleaning it with an ultrasonic cleaner.

They can cause damage in the areas with inclusions, and they also have a tendency to the shake the stone loose.

Affordability

While you sacrifice certain aesthetics when choosing a salt and pepper diamond, your wallet will thank you. 

Because flawless and internally flawless diamonds are rare and in much higher demand, opting for the white and black versions means you can choose a higher carat or CTTW (the total weight of all the diamonds on the piece) with the financial breathing room a cheaper stone provides. 

In the past, these diamonds were often discarded for their flawed character. The surplus is now put to good use because of the increase in demand.

Diversity Availability of Colors

With a near-endless number of inclusion patterns, each salt and pepper diamond offers a spectrum of color combinations. The graphite, carbon, and other raw materials that make up each piece can be vastly different even if mined from the same location. 

You will find dark speckles, cloudy grey streaks, and bright white flecks throughout nearly every gem. Some might come with no salt or only a bit of pepper. It might mysteriously cloud the stone or add to its depth. 

This is part of the attraction new consumers on the market find when examining the diverse availability of color combinations. 

Eco-Friendly

Salt and pepper diamonds are some of the most eco-friendly diamonds on the market. Many diamonds that would’ve previously been abandoned have found demand in the market today.

There’s a minimal amount of additional resources required to mine them because salt and pepper diamonds have always been a byproduct of the search for flawless ones. This leads to less waste and a healthier environment.

The Four Cs

Diamonds are traditionally graded along the four Cs: 

• cut 
• color 
• clarity 
• carat

When it comes to clarity, salt and pepper diamonds don’t get a passing grade. The only helpful clarifying factor is the ability to see the changes in depth between inclusions. 

While clarity is important to see through the surface, once you’re looking through it, the lack of clarity shapes the personality of the stone. 

In regard to carat, you can get much more bang for your buck with a salt and pepper diamond. Generally, prices for diamonds of higher clarity increase sharply with the carat, but that doesn’t hold as true for salt and pepper diamonds. 

Color is the most intriguing aspect of these diamonds. With conventional diamonds, the slightest change in tint is enough to clash with other stones. 

An upside to salt and pepper diamonds is the color is not held to such scrutiny. You’ll find mixtures of black, grey, and white inclusions that influence the colors reflecting off each facet. 

When exploring the different cuts, you’ll find each shape gives off a different view of what’s held inside the stone. Brilliant cuts such as round or princess are also a popular choice, as they show off the character and color of the diamond.